Fripon, the new restaurant of top chef Pauline Séné in Paris

By Manon C. Photos by Manon C. Posted on January 7, 2022 at 4:49 p.m.

Discovering the cuisine of chef Pauline Séné in her first restaurant, Fripon, is a must. To do this, you will have to climb rue de Ménilmontant, one of the steepest in Paris. But every effort deserves a reward, and it is most tasty.

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It is perched on the heights of Menilmontant that chef Pauline Séné, candidate for theTop Chef 2021 edition, has just opened his restaurant, Fripon. That author’s cuisine, at a time modern and daring, the young chef offers it in small plates to share in the evening, as is now the norm in Parisian bistronomic restaurants.

The team can recommend 3 to 4 per person, including € 9 and € 26. At noon on the other hand two lunch formulas (starter / main course or main course / dessert; starter / main course / dessert) are more affordable : count € 21 for the first, € 25 for the second, with the added bonus of leaving conquered.

Because we ate well, at Fripon, this little cocoon signed by the architects Hauvette & Madani with its period mirrors, its ceiling moldings and its marble counter; perfect link between the modernity of current bistros and the charm of Parisian brasseries of yesteryear.

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The menu, which is renewed every week according to the arrival of fresh produce and the chef’s wishes, promises us pretty things with the assurance of never getting bored. We will remember, for example, these fried Brussels sprouts and smoked tarama (10 €) which did not obtain our votes at first but that the chef strongly advised us – with good reason! – or even these fondant Jerusalem artichokes (€ 16), served with cockles and an XO sauce.

And although your loyal waitress is allergic to oysters (yes), the person who dines with us assures us that theoyster n ° 3 nuoc-mam coriander sauce, pickled onions and kumquat (12 €) was particularly tasty, and we choose to take his word for it. Also delicious these encornets, sauce chimichurri (€ 20) topped with grilled broccoli and peanuts, and placed on a broccoli cream (€ 20), or even this seared veal sweetbreads, soberly associated with a cream of potatoes and capers (20 €).

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The pan-fried wild mushrooms, candied onion, parmesan mousse and rye bread (€ 19) is already shaping up to be one of the main dishes on the menu and which should not leave it anytime soon. Of course, we also let ourselves be carried away by the advice of the sommelier who, it must be said, speaks with enthusiasm about his bottles and recommends us, in fact, some pretty trendy pifs. natural and biodynamic wines.

Voluntarily short, the card de Fripon still leaves a little room for desserts, among which one chocolate mousse, peanut cream, caramel and black tea gavotte (10 €), as well as an incredible caramelized pumpkin, halfway between the main course and the dessert, sweet clover cream, almond crumble, squash and lemon praline (10 €).

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In short, an address that is well worth climbing the sloping rue de Ménilmontant on an empty stomach with the assurance of feasting once at the top.

This test was carried out as part of a professional invitation. If your experience differs from ours, please let us know in the comments.

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