By Manon C. Photos by Manon C. Published on November 24, 2022 at 12:10 a.m.
And two for chef Fernando de Tomaso who, after Biondi, unveils a stunning new Argentinian address, tinged with Basque accents: Blanca, on the Bastille side. A wonderful discovery.
We knew Biondi, open a stone’s throw from the Cirque d’Hiver for a few years, for its Argentinian meats carefully licked over the flame, now the Chef Fernando de Tomaso at the origin of the first address opens a second restaurant in Paris, supported by his sister Violetta Hernándezfull of bonhomie, Blanca, a stone’s throw from the Place de la Bastille.
Let it be said, greatness of heart seems to be in order in the family, and the welcome that will be reserved for you at Blanca results more from the family reunion than from simply going to the counter of a new Parisian table. Good advice abounds, recommendations too, whether for dishes or liquids, for beverages to accompany them.
Seven years after the opening of Biondi, the Chef Fernando de Tomaso finally resolves, after many thoughts, to open a new address to discover the cuisine, its Argentinian cuisine, country of his childhood, to as many people as possible, all at an affordable price. It’s very simple, count 18,50€ the lunch menu during the week, including starter and main course (from two choices each time) and dessert. Hard to make more accessible, right?
It’s in honor of grandmabasque originBlanca Villanueva, that the two members of the siblings wanted to open this new argentina addressand it is therefore only natural that the dishes arrive on plates with a deliciously retro look, always emphasizing childhood memories of the duo.
In intimate atmosphere which is not to displease us, the restaurant only having 14 covers, the waltz of wonders which draw their inspiration just as much from Argentina than at Pays Basque begins, without us having time to open our mouths: naughty empanadas with Beaufort cheese, Comté cheese and onions (13€) dripping with their most beautiful features; surprising beef tongue salad and chanterelles (€12) that you wouldn’t have seen coming and which surprises with the almost powdery and herbaceous aroma of its herb mayonnaise; Humus where to dip cheerfully with corn chips, all accompanied by pretty cuvées from Argentina, Spain and France.
Two dishes follow that put us on the floor: on the one hand the Angus beef skirt (26€) accompanied by a marrow bone, cooked to perfection although it seems almost ridiculous to specify it as the House is renowned for the cooking of its beautiful animals; and especially thebraised lamb (28€), a dish of candyof a gluttony and a memory that will remain pregnant, accompanied by a variation of carrots – ultra-fine mashed potatoes, also roasted – and a lamb jus underlined with Aji Panca, a Peruvian red pepper. One of our discoveries of the monthif not one of the pleasures of our year.
After postponing the deadline on the pretext of having eaten too much, the dishes being very, very generouswe end up giving in to the temptation and at the insistence of the team wanting to end our lunch under the best auspices, and we accept the sentence: a caramel flan and its declension of dulce de leche (10€) that it would have been, indeed, a pity to miss.
A address to test without further delay, on the Bastille side!